Back to the future!
As a connoisseur of haute couture, expensive and luxurious collections no longer satisfy me; I consider a designer a winner when I continue to ponder his presentation long after it has concluded. During this season’s Paris Haute Couture Week, some fashion companies defied the notion of classic couture by presenting designs that were not for the faint of heart. Defying gravity, breaking the anatomy of a silhouette, and employing materials often found in hardware stores to innovate with couture—elite fashion’s are no longer content with simply flaunting dance gowns dripping with sequins and gems.
Immediately at the start of fashion week, Schiaparelli, Rahul Mishra, and Iris Van Herpen displayed collections that were engineered rather than developed. The song “Born Again” by Daniel Roseberry reminded people that it is acceptable for fashion to just be beautiful without making a dramatic statement about world problems. His typical surrealistic approach and inspiration from Christian Lacroix’s inaugural collection from 1987 resulted in a range that pays homage to the ’80s with its puffy silhouettes, matador hats, and bejewelled bustiers with 3D flowers literally (spring)ing out of it.
As for Mishra, he included ‘The Tree of Life’ in every conceivable way. Whether it was carving the idea as embroidery connecting the skirt and the blouse to emphasise its roots and barks or putting it artistically on the shoulders. Iris Van Herpen, who is celebrating the 15th anniversary of her namesake fashion label, explored the future by examining the past. Each of her 16 couture pieces was influenced by poems from the eighth century, but the construction included 3D printed panels and textiles produced from repurposed banana leaf and raw silk.
The notion that couture may be futuristic while yet paying homage to the past is fascinating; each presentation represented a tale and a period in time that these garments have immortalised. While it is tough to choose the season’s crowning achievement, here are some of our favourite PHCW 2022 highlights.
- Schiaparelli
Among the many designs that captivated us this season was removing the cloth from the bodice and replacing it with daring gold jewellery falling from chandelier earrings.
- Jean Paul Gaultier
This season, Olivier Rousteing assumed leadership of Jean Paul Gaultier, and via his collection, he demonstrated his admiration for exceptional craftsmanship. In this combination, a formal jacket is transformed into a cocktail dress with power-pleated sleeves that are pushed away from the body.
- Maison Margiela
John Galliano was inspired by a play presentation of Dracula to combine the two art forms of fashion and theatre. This larger-than-life scarlet dress with a massive black ribbon exemplifies Galliano’s unparalleled dressmaking talent and his ability to add drama.
- Viktor & Rolf
This season’s exaggerated couture by Viktor & Rolf carries a devastating message based on the concept of masculinity that does not fit. The lavender pantsuit with an oversized jacket, well-tailored slacks, and a button-down shirt hits all the right notes.
- Balenciaga
Taking inspiration from nearly futuristic neoprene aesthetics, Demna’s conception of haute couture this time centred on a dystopian invasion. In contrast to the billowing gown, this sculpted, figure-flattering, yet edgy ensemble stood out due to its almost geometrical silhouette.
- Elie Saab
Elie Saab’s line is a poetic depiction of the hues of the setting sun that he was attempting to capture. The signature surface decoration for which Saab is renowned has been maintained on apparel, but today there is experimentation with the construction that is fueling the brand’s character.
- Ronald van der Kemp
Each piece in the line by Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp is made from repurposed vintage fabrics. This floral piece from his meticulously crafted couture collection resembles a Monet painting, but with kaleidoscopic hues and exquisite textures.