The doyenne of Indian couture is back with an IRL show and a collection that brides will want to bookmark for their special day
When Anamika Khanna and I talk on the phone a few days before her couture display in Delhi, the culmination of an entire week filled with luxury and splendour, she is going through a range of feelings at that moment. There is no question that there is enthusiasm; nevertheless, if you delve deeper, you will also see that there is a simmering reluctance about how audiences will embrace her newest experimentation with fashion. “The presentation was really classic when we saw it the last time. We had made the decision to present a “beautiful India” and not to muck around with anything, so there was no room for error in any of the preparations. She tells me over the phone that she has just returned from a walk to calm any tense nerves that she may have had. “This time, I have possibly turned it on its head, 360 degrees, and I may have broken every rule in the book possible,” she says.
The previous iteration was, in fact, a collection that broke the internet. Khanna displayed provocative pictures of brides from a variety of religions and cultures in the context of a digital exhibition that was a part of India Couture Week 2021. It was a traditional Anamika Khanna collection, heavy on pearls, flowers, and veils, and it was both gorgeous and boundary breaking in one strong sweep of motion. Khanna is now ready to reflect, reset, and recalibrate the manner in which she investigates and delivers fashion in preparation for her display this evening, which will bring an end to the week that began with Tarun Tahiliani.
“There are no lehengas on the ramp, if that’s what you’re asking me. It is experimental but it is definitely luxury. It is kind of deconstructed, but at the same time I’ve mixed it with some very Indian accents.” — Anamika Khanna
Before I began compiling this collection, I was struck by three or four different concepts. The one idea that came to mind was that when you look around the world and notice how people are dressing, you’ll notice that everyone is dressing in their own unique way. The idea that “this is in fashion and this is what I’m going to wear” is not producing the desired results at this point. Everyone wants to be heard and have their opinion known. There are no guidelines to follow. Because there are no longer any norms to follow, nobody can accurately predict what colour will be popular or which haircut will be the most in demand. The second reason was that I do not ever want to give up holding on to what is valuable and lovely in India. I am a part of this community, and I am aware that the people who make up this community are fortunate to have access to the variety of artisanal goods and textiles that we do. In addition, we all have stuff that were either saved in our grandmother’s trunk or something that our mothers have kept for us in their attics or basements. Although it appears to be a lovely muslin, it has been completely torn apart. You are unable to let go of it due to the fact that it is still a luxury and it is still attractive. At this point, I am of the opinion that it is acceptable to own it in its current state; after all, so what if it is in pieces?
My next question, which could also be yours, is as follows: Is Anamika Khanna suggesting that shredded couture should become the next big thing in the fashion industry? She laughs as she responds, “If that’s what you’re asking, there aren’t any lehengas on the ramp.” “There are going to be a lot of customers, they’re going to kill me! Although it is experimental, you can be sure that it is luxurious. She explains, “It has a bit of a deconstructed feel to it, but at the same time I’ve infused it with some really Indian overtones.”
For her couture excursion this season, Khanna has opted to collaborate with Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers. Khanna is well-known for pairing her draped clothing with jewellery that makes a strong statement, and the designer has done so previously. “You typically and customarily demonstrate how excellent jewellery looks when it is paired with a lehenga. In spite of this, I have accessorised with iron and metal beside priceless artefacts. It has simply taken a turn in a different way, and I cannot express how grateful I am to Yash [Agarwal] for allowing me to have fun with this. She shouts, “The more I talk about it, the more I laugh at myself. I can’t believe I did that!”
After a lengthy absence, Anamika Khanna enjoys the sensation of returning “home” whenever she performs live. And yet, she is known to stay out of the spotlight as much as possible, frequently giving birth to ideas from her atelier in Kolkata, where her two young kids, Viraj and Vishesh, join her in ideating and developing with her. This practise has earned her a legendary reputation. “On the creative front, I have been doing a lot of resetting and reflecting. However, this period has also been used for setting personal boundaries and engaging in introspective thought. The COVID was something that everyone went through, and I personally went through a health crisis. Currently, I’m going through a phase in which I have to keep reminding myself that it’s all right. Everything is OK, and it will continue to be fine. “So, that’s what this collection is – it doesn’t fall into the conventional mould of Indian couture, but it is fully honest and thrilling.”